Num Pang brings Cambodian sandwiches to Union Square

In a small space on E. 12th St., friends Ratha Chaupoly and Ben Daitz prepare creative heroes like peppercorn catfish

BY DAISY MELAMED / NEW YORK DAILY NEWS

SUNDAY, AUGUST 5, 2012

Fish and meatball sandwiches at Cambodian sandwich shop Num Pang

Num Pang, Union Square’s sole Cambodian eatery, has revolutionized the sandwich.

At their hole-in-a-wall storefront on E. 12th St., owners and college buddies Ratha Chaupoly and Ben Daitz offer up a varied selection of handheld Cambodian heroes, each built from a mix of high-end ingredients.

Though the menu at this three-year-old spot — named in Bon Appetit’s “25 Things to Eat, Drink, and Cook in 2012” — changes constantly, the principle behind the food remains the same.

DAVID HANDSCHUH

Ben Daitz, left, and Ratha Chaupoly with their sandwiches at Num Pang

“The sandwiches at Kampuchea [Chaupoly’s old restaurant] were about 11 inches. Now, it’s portable,” explains Chaupoly, a Cambodian native. “That was our concept, to change how people enjoyed eating lunch or dinner.”

Num Pang’s décor brings together a schoolhouse esthetic with accents reminiscent of New York’s street-art heyday.

With just eight stools and minimal standing room at the bar, the shop is small in size and that's just how the pair wanted it.

“The advantage of a small space is that we can have our hands on everything that goes on,” says Daitz.

The shop opened during the peak of the economic crisis, and Chaupoly and Daitz say their unique business model — offering high-quality food in an affordable (prices range from $7.25 to $9.25) and easy manner — proved instantly successful.

“When we opened, the response we got from people was crazy because they saw how much care we put into the product, the ingredients,” Daitz says. “You’re getting value, but you’re also getting something that tastes incredible. Even though we didn’t time it that way, it was good that it was cheap and fast.”

Just don’t confuse Num Pang’s sandwiches with their oft-associated cousin, banh mi.

“Unlike Vietnamese banh mi, our sandwiches have a long, thought-out process behind them. We love banh mi, but here, there’s a lot more coming to the table.”

Adds Chaupoly: “Those traditional sandwiches are very simple. What we do here takes much more time.”

Combinations at Num Pang, which has a second location near Grand Central station, include peppercorn catfish with house-made sweet soy sauce and five-spice-glazed pork belly with pickled Asian pear.

The creative duo’s relationship is as interesting as the food they serve. Together, Chaupoly and Daitz bring extensive culinary skills and a natural affinity for local flavors to the Num Pang brand.

They’re also known for teaming up with guest chefs to create limited-edition sandwiches that benefit local charities.

Just this year, they worked with Mario Batali and ABC Kitchen’s Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Dan Kluger.

“The partnership has been able to yield some interesting results because Ratha is coming to the table with more of a natural palate from that part of the world, and I'm coming to the table with more traditional technique,” says Daitz.

Adding fuel to the already-roaring fire, they say, is the increased public appreciation of the region’s culinary traditions. Cambodian flavors, techniques and dishes are becoming increasingly mainstream.

“The growth of ethnic awareness with food is huge. It used to be that there was a very small group that tasted our food and knew our food, but now, it’s really grown,” says Chaupoly. “This type of sandwich just came out to the mainstream public in the past few years.”

So what’s the plan going forward? Expansion.

“We wanted to start small, but that doesn’t mean we don’t have plans to grow,” says Chaupoly. “We’ve got a couple targets right now that we’re moving towards.”

Num Pang , 21 E. 12th St. (212) 255-3271.

daisy.melamed@gmail.com